How to install a ceramic floor
Find out everything you need to know to install your ceramic floor!
00:06 Materials and tools required
00:13 Surface preparation
00:22 Installing the uncoupling membrane
01:14 Ceramic installation (tile layout, preparation of moldings and application of thin-set mortar)
03:11 Joint preparation and grouting
03:31 Grout cleaning
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Materials and tools required
Materials
- Ceramic tiles
- Tile cement
- Grout
- Uncoupling membrane
- Transition and/or finishing mouldings
Tools
- Tile cutter
- Level
- Clips and wedges
- Trowel
- Buckets
- Sponge
- Grout float
- Tape measure
- Pencil
- Aviation snips
- Edge trowel
- Compression roller
- Grout and mortar mixer
- Wooden float (for membrane)
- Mixer
- Oscillating tool
- Knee pads
- Retractable utility knife
- Chalk line
- Scraper
- Grinder
Surface preparation
The subfloor surface must be free of all residues (glue, paint, plaster, etc.).
Remove baseboards and cut door frames with an oscillating tool so that the tile can fit under them.
Installing the uncoupling membrane
Measure the surface where you're going to install the uncoupling membrane, then determine your starting point so as to have as few cuts as possible. Then cut the membrane to the appropriate size using a retractable utility knife.
Mix the thin-set mortar for membrane installation according to the manufacturer's directions, and add a little more water to make your thin-set mortar more liquid than recommended for better transfer.
Moisten the plywood with a sponge previously soaked in water and wrung out to remove dust and prevent the plywood from absorbing the water in the thin-set mortar during installation.
Apply a thin layer of thin-set mortar to the surface using the back (flat side) of the trowel. Apply a thin layer of thin-set mortar to the surface with the back (flat) side of the trowel, then work over the mortar with the serrated side, making sure that the lines of mortar are always in the same direction.
Place the uncoupling membrane on the surface, applying pressure with a wooden float to ensure good adhesion to the mortar and remove air from under the membrane.
Work in small sections to prevent the mortar from drying out before you lay the membrane.
From time to time, lift a corner of your membrane to check that your transfer is adequate.
Use a compression roller to ensure that the membrane is well positioned and smooth, avoiding wrinkles or air bubbles.
Allow to dry for 24 hours.
Tile installation
Dry lay the tiles using the spacers to calculate the quantity of ceramic required (including joints) in order to plan your layout and, by the same token, the layout of the tiles.
Find your starting point for installation and transpose your tile dimensions to the ends of the room, on the membrane. Using a chalk line (or level and pencil), connect your reference points at the ends to determine the alignment of the tiles.
Prepare your finishing and/or transition mouldings.
Once you've finished scribing the room, it's time to square your starting point.Use the 3-4-5 rule (3', 4', 5'). Draw a parallel reference point 3' from your starting point. Next, measure 4' from your starting point and draw a marker line (left or right).
Measure the diagonal distance between the two marks you've made (3' and 4'). This distance should be 5 ft.
Transpose your 5 ft. measurement.
Using the chalk line, draw your squareness line from your starting point and your 5' point.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions to prepare tile mortar in a bucket, mixing the appropriate amount of water and cement.
If you need to install a molding, apply thin-set mortar with the notched side of your trowel and insert your molding.
Fill the membrane cells with thin-set mortar with the flat side of your trowel. Next, apply cement-glue with the notched side of your trowel and make sure the glue lines are always in the same direction.
Work in small sections to avoid the cement-glue drying out before installing the tiles.
Look at where the arrow is located under your ceramic tiles and make sure you always install them in the same direction.
Apply a layer of cement-glue with the flat side of your trowel to the back of your ceramic tiles (double-gluing technique).
Use a rubber mallet to make it easier to seat the tile.
Press each tile lightly to ensure that it adheres well to the cement.
Run the edge trowel at an angle along the side of your tile to avoid cement-glue overflowing into your joint.
Install your clips so that you have uniform spacing between your tiles.
Repeat the installation steps until your installation surface is complete.
Use shims to ensure that your tiles are levelled evenly.
If you have a cut-out requiring a grinder or water saw, measure your cut-out and transpose it onto your tile.
Take the measurements needed to fill the perimeter of the room and use a tile cutter to make the cuts.
Check from time to time that your thin-set mortar transfer is adequate.
Once all the tiles are in place and the thin-set mortar has had time to dry (24 hours later), remove the clips and spacers.
Joint preparation and grouting
Scrape all joints to ensure they are free of thin-set mortar. If necessary, scrape off any excess thin-set mortar with a retractable utility knife. If you have underfloor heating, adjust the length of the blade to avoid damaging the underfloor heating.
Clean up with a broom or vacuum cleaner.
Before applying grout, clean tiles with a damp, well wrung-out sponge to remove all traces of thin-set mortar and other residues.
Mix grout according to manufacturer's instructions and apply it to the spaces between tiles using a grout float.
Allow grout mixture to dry for the time recommended by the manufacturer (time may vary according to ambient temperature).
Grout cleaning
Use a damp, well wrung-out sponge to clean excess grout mixture from tiles. This is a two-step process.
First, clean the grout in circular motions, helping to even out the grout in the joints and achieve uniformity.
Finally, on a 24” length, clean the tile a second time at a 45° angle, going back and forth with one side of the sponge and turning the sponge over on the clean side to go back to the same spot.
Rinse your sponge and repeat this step over the entire surface of your floor.
Once dry, if any excess grout residue is still visible, you can remove it with a microfiber cloth.