How to install an engineered wood floor?
Find out everything you need to know to install your engineered wood floor!
00:06 Materials and tools required
00:12 Surface preparation
00:17 INSTALLATION METHOD: Nailed or stapled installation
00:22 Installing silicone paper00:32 Laying out the first boards
00:57 Fixing the boards
01:32 INSTALLATION METHOD: Floating installation (glued to joints)
01:35 Applying wood glue and interlocking planks
01:51 INSTALLATION METHOD: Glued installation
01:53 Laying out the acoustic membrane
02:00 Applying adhesive and securing the membrane
02:18 Applying adhesive and securing boards
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Materials required
- Vacuum cleaner or broom
- Miter saw
- Tape measure
- Chalk line
- Square
- Hammer and tapping block
- Levelling compound or sander
- Reversing tongue and wood glue (if required)
Additional materials for glued installation
- Waterless urethane adhesive
- Finishing nailer
- Truelle recommended by adhesive manufacturer
- Blue 3M adhesive tape or equivalent
- Guide battens and concrete nails (to support and secure 1st row) 100-150 lb (45-68 kg) pressure roller
- Cleaner for urethane-based adhesive
- Acoustic membrane up to 5 mm thick

Additional materials for nailed or stapled installation
- Hardwood nailer or staple hammer (pneumatic or manual)
- Floor screws
Surface preparation
The subfloor surface must be free of all residues (glue, paint, plaster, etc.). Rectify slight surface irregularities with a sander or scraper.
INSTALLATION METHOD
Nailed or stapled installation
Silicone paper installation
Using your nailer or stapler, install your silicone paper over your entire installation surface. This will facilitate the installation of your floor and prevent friction between your substrate and your wood floor.
Laying out the first planks
Determine your starting point and install your first row.
If your starting point is against a wall and you can't use the traditional nailer or stapler, use a finishing nailer (15 or 16 gauge).
Lay out 4 or 5 rows of boards in advance, matching in terms of joints and color.
For best results, stagger the joints by 6“ to 8” from the previous row and alternate the length of the boards.
Fastening the planks
Use the nailer or stapler to install your rows.
Each plank must be fastened in at least two places (every 4“ to 6”).Never fasten less than 2” from the ends of the planks to avoid splintering.
For the last row, place a plank directly on top of the previously installed row. Draw a line along the edge of this board to measure where the cut will be made.
Cut your boards with a bench saw according to the measurements taken earlier, and install your last boards. Using a finishing nailer, nail the last row so that the nails are hidden by your finishing mouldings when installed.
INSTALLATION METHOD
Floating installation (glued to joints)
Application of wood glue and board interlocking
Carefully apply wood glue only to the lower part of the groove.
Incorrect or insufficient application could result in joint separation, while too much glue would make the job more complicated.
It may be necessary to use a tapping block to ensure that the boards fit together securely.
INSTALLATION METHOD
Glued installation
Acoustic membrane layout
Install your acoustic membrane starting along the wall and use a utility knife with a retractable blade to cut it.
Repeat this operation until the entire surface of the room is covered with membrane.
Check that the membrane seams meet correctly.
Then use a heavy roller to ensure good contact between the adhesive and the membrane.
Applying adhesive and fastening planks
Proceed in small sections to avoid the adhesive drying out before the planks are laid.
Continue in small sections, spreading 4 or 5 rows at a time, until the floor is completely installed.
Use adhesive tape every 5 or 6 rows to ensure that the boards stay in place.
Use a 100-150 lb. pressure roller to apply pressure to the installed sections while the adhesive is still active (approx. 45-60 minutes).
Once installation is complete, reinstall your finishing mouldings.